Tiffany & Co was founded in New York in 1837 as a stationery and fancy goods store. Within a decade it had pivoted toward fine jewellery and silverware, and by the mid-19th century it had established itself as the pre-eminent American luxury house. Charles Tiffany - 'The King of Diamonds' - built the house's reputation on serious gemological ambition, most dramatically demonstrated in 1887 when he acquired a significant portion of the French Crown Jewels following the fall of Napoleon III.
In 1886 the house introduced the Tiffany Setting: a six-prong solitaire mount that elevated the diamond above the band to maximise light entry. It remains the most widely copied ring setting in the world.
The Designers Who Defined the House
Elsa Peretti, who joined in 1974, brought organic sculptural forms - her Bone Cuff, Bean pendant, and Open Heart designs remain among the most collected pieces in the house's history. Paloma Picasso, from 1980, introduced a bolder graphic sensibility; her Graffiti X and Kiss pieces have a strong following among collectors of 1980s jewellery. Jean Schlumberger, who joined in 1956, produced the most technically ambitious work of all - fantastical enamel pieces featuring birds, flowers, and sea creatures that sit at the intersection of jewellery and sculpture.
What to Look for When Buying Vintage Tiffany
Tiffany & Co pieces are marked with the metal standard (925 for sterling silver, 750 for 18ct gold), the Tiffany & Co name, and often the country of origin. UK market pieces carry British assay office hallmarks in addition. Designer attribution marks - Peretti, Picasso, Schlumberger - appear on pieces from those collections and are a reliable dating aid.
Condition, original packaging, and provenance all affect value. Pieces with their original blue box and pouch are more desirable, though the box alone does not authenticate a piece. Sterling silver is the most accessible entry point for collectors; early Peretti and Schlumberger pieces in gold represent the upper end of the market.
0 comments