Georgian Gold & Diamond Cluster Ring - Portrait Cut Centre Diamond - Rose Cuts - Early 19th Century - C2997

Summary

A Georgian gold and diamond cluster ring from the early 19th century, set with a central portrait cut (lasque) diamond flanked by rose cut stones to the north and south, with a mixed surround of mine and rose cut diamonds in closed foiled backs, on a chamfered gold band.

Description

The ring is of a type that was made before the standardisation of diamond cutting - before the brilliant cut had established its dominance, and when the stones available to a jeweller were whatever the trade had produced: portrait cuts, rose cuts, mine cuts, each with its own character, each handled differently by the light. The jeweller who made this ring worked with what was there, and the result is a cluster that has a quality of accumulation rather than uniformity - stones of different depths and faceting arrangements sitting together in a mount that holds them without imposing on them.

The central stone is a portrait cut, also known as a lasque - a flat, table-like diamond with a broad face and shallow profile, cut to maximise the spread of the stone rather than its depth. It is flanked to the north and south by rose cut diamonds, their domed faceted surfaces catching light differently from the flat centre. Around them, a further ring of mixed mine and rose cut stones completes the cluster, the whole arrangement sitting within an open scrolling gold mount of considerable delicacy.

The backs of all settings are closed and foiled - the standard Georgian technique for maximising the apparent brightness of diamonds before modern cutting and lighting made such measures unnecessary. The foiling reflects light back through the stones from behind, giving them a warmth and depth that open-backed settings do not produce. The exterior of the band is chamfered, a detail that speaks to the quality of the original making.

The ring carries no hallmarks, which is entirely typical for Georgian jewellery of this period - hallmarking of rings was not consistently enforced in the early 18th century. The metal tests as gold averaging 9ct, consistent with the alloy compositions used in the period. 

Recommended for special occasion wear given its age and the delicacy of the design.

Condition

Good antique condition with period wear consistent with its age and use over two centuries. The diamonds are present and secure in their settings. The foiled backs are intact. The pin fitting and band are sound. Some natural wear to the gold surfaces as expected for a piece of this age.

Approximate Measurements

• Ring size: N
• Head - north/south: 18.1mm [0.71in]
• Central three diamonds - row width: 6.1mm [0.24in]
• Centre stone: Portrait cut (lasque) diamond
• North and south stones: Rose cut diamonds
• Surround: Mixed mine and rose cut diamonds
• Settings: Closed foiled backs
• Band: Chamfered exterior
• Material: Gold (tests as 9ct average)
• Marks: None, as typical for the period
• Date: Early 18th century
• Weight: 3.08 grams [0.11oz]

Stock Code: C2997 FB25-3

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